������

UNAIR NEWS – It has been more than a month since the three athletes of Airlangga Indonesia Denali Expedition (AIDeX) Student Activity Unit (UKM) Wanala successfully reaching Denali summit at an altitude of 6,194 meters above sea level (mdpl) in June. Even so, the memory of the journey was still fresh in their minds.

Two AIDeX athletes Muhammad Faishal Tamimi (alumnus of Faculty of Vocational Studies) and Mochammad Roby Yahya (student of Faculty of Fisheries and Marine 2011) shared their experience of climbing Denali, about the ice mountain, their activities, and moral message.

“San Francisco was cold and windy. The temperature ranged from 13 to 17 degrees Celsius. We wore a jacket to maintain temperature so it would not be too cold,” Faishal started their story.

Leaving San Francisco, United States, they had a long journey to the last village before Denali, Talkeetna, Alaska. Arriving there, they must deal with administrative papers and begin their journey to the top.

For 21 days in the mountain, they got a lot of experience stored in their memories. For example, on the second day of climbing, the three athletes included Yasak (alumnus of the Faculty of Social and Political Sciences), they practiced self-evacuation techniques. Their guide fell a few meters before reaching the first camp.

Fortunately, due to moving together technique and self-protection that they had done during training before departure, all three could immediately rescue their team-mate.

“We’re careful then. But the crevasse was covered by snow, suddenly, our guide fell and disappeared. Fortunately, there was a moving together system . Each athlete has a safety rope attached. Mas Yasak and I became the anchor or security, “said Faishal.

“We were equipped with a vertical rescue system during the first practice. We pulled our partner who fell with the zip drive system , ” added Roby.

Limited oxygen

The three athletes had to acclimatize to the temperature of the height. They went up to a certain height, took a break for several hours and then descend to the lower ground. The next day, they climbed to higher ground. They did the same to reach the last camp before the summit.

Weather conditions in Camp Four was windy while wind speed was quite high.  The temperature ranged from minus 28 degrees Celsius to minus 32 degrees Celsius. The snow also reached the thigh of a grown-up. As a result, the athletes’ pace was halted for several days.

However, in terms of terrain and oxygen levels, the camp before the summit was the toughest obstacle for Roby and Faishal.

“You see, it’s very cold, the wind blew hard as well, and it started since the altitude of 5000 mdpl, oxygen level lowered. We must take a deep breath a few times only to make a few steps, “said Roby who was also a student of Aquaculture Program.

“We had a thermometer. It showed minus 40 degrees Celsius. It’s the lowest in the thermometer. From the report of Denali National Park. If the report Denali National Park reach minus 55 degrees Celsius, “said Faishal.

Although there were many obstacles, the team was optimistic to hoist The Red and White and UNAIR flag on the highest summit in the Northern Sky. In Faishal’s mind, it never occurred to him to surrender. He was optimistic that they can return to Indonesia safely.

Roby felt the same way. He felt the obstacles that the AIDeX team encountered during the climb did not stop their intention to reach the summit. “When we just started it was white out already on the second day. That’s since we were in basecamp , “said Roby.

Impressive experience

Although these athletes like climbing the mountain, they took time to rest. The three put up three tents for it. And, of course to warm the body. Their mattresses made them forget the cold Denali which is located not far from the North Pole.

“Especially when you’ve entered the sleeping bag. It was really warm, “added Roby.

The food should not be forgotten. The athletes have brought Indonesian and American ingredients during the climb. They cooked them to be rendang, balado, and soto. Faishal admitted that their food were relatively fast to cook.

Climbing for three weeks in Denali had left a special impression on Faishal and Roby. Awareness of the climbers to maintain the natural cleanliness should be applied in Indonesia. Faishal explained, Mount Denali is completely white and clean. He did not see any trash lying on the highest mountain climb in the United States.

If Faishal is impressed with cleanliness, Roby admired the availability of medical personnel and security forces ( ranger ) there. He saw medical and security personnel in every camp.

The climb had caused all three athletes exposed to frostbite. Roby confessed, his hands felt cold and frozen when they were at the top. However, he felt the summit of Denali was in sight so he kept on going. Arriving at the summit, he opened his gloves and found out his two fingers blackened.

Although he was aware of the injury, Roby thought that climbing the summit of Denali was a success. Not everyone has the opportunity to set foot at the summit at 6,194 meters above the sea level.

“I am grateful. Not everyone has a chance to reach the top of Denali, ” ended Roby.

Author: Defrina Sukma S

Editor: Nuri Hermawan